Parts and Accessories

Reproductions of the stock base plates of the rigid frame rear brakes for rigid frame Big Twins including brake shoes and all important small parts. It takes just the brake drum and the axle spacer to complete the brake. Correct for 1938-1957, but fit 1936 and 1937, too.

Special grip assembly for routing and operating the throttle cable inside the handlebars. It shows German mechanical engineering at its best and features a spiral with two plain bearings and a plunger that is supported by double roller bearing pins for smooth, effortless and snap-back throttle control.
These Müller grips accept all rubber, plastic and aluminum grips with an 1-1/8” ID.
The mounting of handlebar end turn signals is possible and an additional inner brass tube protects the turn signal cable from being damaged from the plunger.

Complete and accurate reproduction of the classic H-D Springer fork (Inline) as used by the factory on Big Twins 1937-1938. Manufactured just like back in the good old times, i.e. with forged legs and connecting components, which makes them equal to the original counterpart concerning stability and service life.
Use this top-quality fork as stock replacement for your restauration or as a part of your chopper or bobber project-bike. The special features are:
Bare - allows an individual finish of the fork, Narrow 1936-1937 type mudguard mount , Completely brazed, Brake anchor mount for drum brake are soldered just like stock, "Swept-forward" rigid fork as used by the factory 1936-1940, Rockers are round at the top, i.e. they have no raised sprues for the grease nipples, Grease nipples for the guide bushings on the upper triple clamp point inwards, as common in 1936-1938, Threaded hole on the rigid fork for the brake control coil clip is slightly off-center as it was fitted from late 1937 onwards , The dimensions of our standard forks are exactly the same as for the original Springer forks (48,5 cm = 19” from center of wheel axle to lower neck bearing seat).,
This fork features a fork stem that works with the included centering collar for 1936-up ball bearings. It is not drilled for the 1948→ steering head lock.
Length is measured from axle center line to seat of lower steering head bearing.

Complete kit with all standard engine fasteners for Harley-Davidson motors in cadmium plating. Includes screws and nuts for the primary cover, lifter base, circuit breaker, cam cover, cylinder base, oil pump, transmission side and top covers, as well as case studs and nuts. Also included: timing plug, transmission fill plug, generator screws, head bolts and washers.
All parts meet or exceed original Harley-Davidson specifications. Ideal for engine rebuilds, restorations, and replacing worn fasteners.

There are many control modules for the electrical system of a Harley-Davidson custom bike. These modules can be operated via pushbuttons on the handlebar and do not require bulky switches. These modules replace relays and centralize electrical functions such as lights, horn, etc., into a single device.
The mo.unit blue from motogadget, however, operates on a completely different level. Not only does it switch all electrical components on and off, it also protects all circuits, eliminating the need for fuses except for a main fuse. It can be operated with pushbutton controls or with conventional, mechanical handlebar switches. The wiring harness is greatly reduced to just the cables running to the loads and very thin wires to the switches/pushbuttons. If you additionally use a Further information on wiring, programming, and additional parameters can be found in the linked user manual.

In addition to the straight leg style bolt-on hardtail sections, that are mostly used for chopper projects of Ironhead Harley-Davidson motorcycles, Lowbrow Customs now offers rigid bolt-on hardtails sections that are inspired by the early KR race bikes with the looped frame. So if you are looking for something special for your next Ironhead Bobber project and are nostalgic about racing, you can kill two birds with one stone by using this hardtail. The frame tubes on these tail sections are bent in one piece, just like back then, and the axle plates are welded into the loop. Mounting can be done without much difficulty and without messing up the original frame too much. Made by hand in the USA, Ohio, from 1" x 0.125" thick steel tube, and 5/16" thick axle plates.
Fits all 1967-1978 ironhead sportsters (1967-1969: only XL and XLH). Most stock installed components remain. Rear wheel, axle and brake can be remounted as before. Rear axle adjusters and a frame mounting kit are also supplied. For correct assembly, 2" of the rear fender struts must be cut off, otherwise the frame remains untouched. The bike's dimensions will change by 4" in length and -2" in height. This means that you will need a longer secondary chain and longer brake rods.

Top notch, restoration-quality reproductions of the rigid frame rear mudguards for Big Twins 1936-1948, with exact shaping and 3-piece construction (spot welded side panels) of the factory parts and raised swages for the stock fender trim. The 1936-1938 version features the correct butterfly reinforcement on the brace center and the Air-flo taillight cover. Made in small batches from expert craftsmen with sweat and love. No disappointments.

This is a high-quality reproduction of the Harley „Hamburger“ drum brake as originally mounted to XL 1964-1972 and early Super Glides. Nowadays original brakes are usually very difficult to find in good condition at an affordable price. These drum brakes made from die-cast aluminum are CNC precision-machined and in no way inferior to the originals in terms of quality and function.

A bolt-on solution from LeBeeF for the front mounting of OEM solo seats on basically all seat-post suited H-D frames. This ingenious device with hinge installs into your center frame tube which normally houses the seat post. It consists of a bushing and insert with attached hinge. The bushing has a thru-rod attached by which it is permanently tied down into the frame tube. The bushing insert is secured with a pin which makes removal of the seat a snap. Large OEM type seats require an adapter bracket for the seat springs. On smaller OEM type seats like the ELR Knuckle seat the coil springs can be directly attached to the seat pan. A perfect solution for mounting those big Bobber Seats if welding on an old stock frame is out of the question.

In-line polarizing solid state adapters to convert your magneto to single-fire operation. Use one kit for for single or two kits for dual plug applications. With each set-up only the live cylinder fires. Works with all Harley magnetos.

If you own a Shovelhead, Panhead or Ironhead Sportster, this bracket is for you. It allows attaching a CV carburetor to 2-bolt Tillotson, Bendix or Keihin (butterfly) manifolds. The bracket even has a mount for the CV-carburetor choke cable. Longer screws and little spacers to go to the carburetor lid are included.
Depending on configuration, installation might require:
2-bolt flange adapter, carburetor support bracket, air cleaner spacer 3mm, gaskets,
Please acquire these items separately.

High End Allround tires by Pirelli for Super- and Funbikes.
Closely linked to racing, Pirelli delivers with the MT60RS tire with multi-radius profile and a radial carcass with 0° - steel belt a real blast in terms of stability, safety and handling. It offers excellent braking stability and leaning support. The tread pattern is specially designed for use on wet roads and a Superbike racing compound ensures excellent grip and directional stability on wet roads. However, there is nothing to stop this tire from riding on dry roads, gravel roads or salt deserts. This tire offers pure driving pleasure.

Since the seventies Mikuni round slide carbs were and still are installed on Harleys. They are robust, easy to adjust and fuel economical. This 34 mm version is specifically sized for 45 cui./750cc W and G (Servicar) models, where they replace that old Linkert and yield smooth idle, easy starting and crisp acceleration.

No matter if you race at the Baja California 1000 or if you’re on a short trip to the nearby stone quarry, your Bates Baja bars will be ready for it. And on asphalt, too, they cut a fine figure, respectively the rider, as the Bates Baja bars provide a relaxed and upright seating postion. As you would expect from offroad handlebars they feature a cross bar which does not only give additional strength but also comes in handy to mount a GPS system, map holder, accessory bag, etc.

Pictures of the good old days, i.e. the Forties and the Fifties, often show bikes which sport so-called wheel covers. These were very popular accessories in their days, because they gave the wheels a completely different appearance. So if you really want to show off and stand out with your classic bike, here’s your hot ticket. These wheel covers are exact reproductions of the period parts, hand-made from industrial finish stainless steel which allows you to polish, chrome or paint them. They fit 16” wheels with star hubs →1966 or 1967-1972 hubs and come with the correct small parts. Slight modification of axle spacers may be necessary.

Probably the fastest intake cover on the planet.

These Knucklehead style cylinder heads are precise reproductions of the stock counterparts and show all the small details like cast-in number tags and foundry markings. Thus they make for great replacements for your worn top end or to build a factory look-alike engine. They are manufactured after 1940-1947 heads with large intake ports. The pre-installed, but unmachined valve seats are sized for stock intake and exhaust valves and hardened for the use of today’s unleaded fuels.

The younger your Harley, the more complex the wiring — at least if you keep it stock. But when doing a custom build, you can definitely simplify the electrical system. Not necessarily just to cut down on relays — since with micro switches on the handlebar you can’t really do without them. After all, those switches aren’t designed to handle high currents directly. But you can take the load off the switches, centralize the wiring, and reduce it all to a cleaner, more functional harness with fewer cables.
The programmable control modules from Axel Joost Elektronikbox combine the basic bike functions (horn, load independent turn signals, head light, starter) in one box and eliminate the need for relays. Control is via thin cables to the buttons on the handlebars, the outputs switch the electrical loads.
The minimal size of the boxes allows a mounting in the head light shell, under the tank or hidden under the seat ... in short: everywhere on the bike, where there is just a little space.
A not to be underestimated advantage beside the saving of the relays is also that the modules simplify the wiring of custom bikes substantially and one gets along with very few cables.
The modules are sealed waterproof and are delivered with a blade type fuse.
Who wants to activate basic lighting functions, the horn and an electric starter, should choose the H-Box.
These are the functionalities:
Horn (push button), Engine start (push button), To start the engine all other electric consumers can be switched off (saves battery power), Turn signals left and right (push buttons or switch), Turn signal cancellation programmable, Turn signal can work as position lights, High and low beam (push button or switch), Circuit function control via LEDs,
The current version of the H-box incorparates the possibility to manage all circuits via just two push-buttons. Just look up the under "Documents" for more information.

The Cannonball StealthStarter system converts your classic kickstart-only Harley-Davidson to electric start. After installation you just push the button or turn the key to fire up your classic Big Twin.
The Cannonball SSK electric start system bolts between kicker cover and transmission case. The stock kick starter can be retained. Due to the system’s low profile, only ¾” (19 mm) wide construction the overall appearance of your motorcycle will remain virtually unchanged. Primary drive, primary housing and oil tank will stay untouched.
Installation is fairly easy and straightforward. The kit includes everything needed for the conversion except for the extended throwout bearing, battery, wires and starter button/switch.
If the bike is still equipped with an early stock 6 V electrical system, you will have to convert this to 12 V. Depending on the configuration some other options are available separately.
Since the kicker cover moves 19 mm to the right the following modifications may be necessary:
A stock 2-1 exhaust system will have to be routed slightly outward to compensate for the offset of the kicker cover. , A longer clutch release lever will be necessary on rod actuated configurations like Moustraps or Footclutch. A longer lever can be ordered seperately if needed., A extended throwout bearing must be ordered seperately for your type of clutch pushrod since the stock pushrod will be 19 mm too short.,
A longer brake crossover shaft will be necessary on all bikes using the original mechanical rear brake in conjunction with the original 2-1 or similar exhaust. A longer crossover shaft can be ordered separately if needed. , Original rear fenders need to be slightly dented for starter motor clearance. Alternatively, an aluminum “Dent” can be ordered separately. In this case the fender needs to be cut out to allow the “dent” to be mounted with the original lower fender mount bolt and the two oil tank/battery tray bolts.,