Shop Electrical
Ignition Switches

Ignition Switches

The Cyclery Switch Assembly Brackets
The Cyclery Switch Assembly Brackets
Authentic duplicate of the lower support bracket for the switch assembly/dash.
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Switch Assembly Mounting Bolts
Switch Assembly Mounting Bolts
Authentic duplicates of the switch assembly fastening bolts.
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Dash Panel Ignition Switches →1993 OEM Replacement
Dash Panel Ignition Switches →1993 OEM Replacement
Chrome-plated reproductions of the OEM ignition switch used on models from 1936 to present.
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Ignition Switch Mounting Kits →1946
Ignition Switch Mounting Kits →1946
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Dash Panel Ignition Switches 1993→ OEM Replacement
Dash Panel Ignition Switches 1993→ OEM Replacement
Side hinge ignition switches with barrel style key. Feature modern wire terminals and locking system. Easy to adapt to older bikes with wiring modification. Also available with neck lock and pin.
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Dash Panel Ignition Switch and Steering Lock Combo
Dash Panel Ignition Switch and Steering Lock Combo
A single key for steering and ignition lock is always a nice thing to have. But just when you replace one of the two locks, nicety is gone. Two alike looking keys on the lanyard, each time trying out which one fits where ... oh boy! Do not start marking your keys with paint dots or similar, here is the solution: alike keyed sets of ignition switch and steering lock cylinder with two keys.
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FL Style Ignition Switch with Internal Contacts
FL Style Ignition Switch with Internal Contacts
An updated duplicate of the late-style ignition switch that has the switching contacts on the inside. Contacts are less prone to corrosion and failure.
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FX and Sportster Ignition Switch →1993
FX and Sportster Ignition Switch →1993
Reproduction of the original ignition switch for FX, FXR and Sportster models. Fits also in conjunction with all W&W ignition switch brackets. Key positions are: OFF-IGNITION-IGNITION+LIGHT.
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Bates Ignition Switch Flange Nuts
Bates Ignition Switch Flange Nuts
If you don’t like the standard ring nut that comes with your round type ignition switch, here’s your quality alternative. Hex style flange nuts which are CNC machined from stainless steel. Now you can tighten your switch down with a spanner so it won’t shake loose after a few miles down the road. A drop of thread locker doesn’t hurt though.
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Dyna and Sportster Ignition Switch
Dyna and Sportster Ignition Switch
These switches are stock on all Dyna Glide and Sportster 1990→ (ecc. FXDWG) models. They feature the round key design.
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Rony L.L.C. Ignition/Starter Switch
Rony L.L.C. Ignition/Starter Switch
Waterproof universal ignition switch which will work trouble-free even in heavy downpours. The switch features OFF-RUN-START and HORN positions/functions. Can be used without a starter relay. The OFF position can be used to ground magnetos.
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Bates Kill Bill Battery Switches
Bates Kill Bill Battery Switches
Terminal and thumb screw assembly which can be mounted on any suitable place on the motorcycle. It connects the battery’s ground (negative) terminal and cable with the frame.
After installation you have two options:
use your Kill Bill Switch like an ignition switch. Half a turn out and the current is interrupted., use your Kill Bill Switch as protection from manipulation and theft. When you leave your bike remove the thumb screw and thus disconnect the battery from the electrical system.,
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PanAm Oil/Ignition Shut-Off Valves
PanAm Oil/Ignition Shut-Off Valves
Pre-TwinCam engines have a spring loaded ball check valve to prevent the engine oil from seeping down to the crankcase. These check valves don’t last forever. If you try to start your engine after a lengthy period of inactivity (e.g. winter), the oil in the crank case gets forcefully ejected via the breather. Creating an ungodly mess on your garage floor.
Installing a manually operated valve in the oil feed line from tank to oil pump can prevent this, but carries the risk of forgetting to open it. Resulting in major engine trouble. And we mean major.
This here nifty PanAm shut off valve is also installed in the feed line. With a little difference: once closed, the ignition is cut out too. No inadvertently starting the engine with this baby.
The tough polyamide housing has several mounting holes which offer all sorts of possibilities to secure it to the frame or other convenient hard points.
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DynaMite Street Bob Ignition Switch Relocation Kit
DynaMite Street Bob Ignition Switch Relocation Kit
If you are tired of reaching down to the frame neck with your key, trying to find the ignition switch, this relocation kit is your hot ticket. It comprises all necessary parts, except for the ignition switch, to install a late style Fat Bob ignition switch on your Street Bob speedo dash.
The advantage is that you only use your key to lock/unlock the ignition switch, thereafter you remove and stow it. No more tumbling keys (mostly including the security fob) at the frame neck during the ride, where they scratch the paint or possibly get lost. In addition, the relocated switch restitutes that classic Harley look on your bike.
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Replacement Parts
Replacement Parts

What is an ignition switch?

An ignition switch can only be operated with the appropriate key. The ignition switch on motorcycles, if they have one, is simply the central switch that disconnects the battery from the rest of the circuit so it doesn't discharge. Also, with an ignition switch, you can usually switch multiple circuits with one component. In contrast, the classic 1924-1936 Harley model switch boards, as the precursor to the ignition lock, have separate switches, one for the battery and a separate one for the lights.

Does my Harley-Davidson have to have an ignition switch?

The ignition switch is not considered a theft protection, at least in Germany. This protection is prescribed in the German StVZO according to §38a (2): "Motorcycles (...) must be equipped with a security device against unauthorized use, (...)". - You will not find a regulation for an ignition switch. That's why the TÜV also checks if the steering lock works or if there is a lock at all. On many older Harleys without a steering lock, the separate padlock is even registered in the documents. In Austria an ignition lock is sufficient as theft protection.

So no, your favorite motorcycle does not need an ignition switch, at least not in Germany. But it makes sense anyway. The ignition switch is the central switch that separates the battery from the rest of the electrical system. You could also do it like the motorcyclists did in Kaiser Wilhelm's time: Disconnect the negative or positive wire from the battery. But no one really wants to fiddle with that, unless you are riding a motorcycle like that. So: such an ignition switch is simply practical. As an alternative, however, there is always the Kill Bill battery switch from Bates. If you don't want to mount a clunky Nato switch onto your bike: the Kill Bill is the cool alternative.

By the way, Harley-Davidson motorcycles didn't have ignition switches in the modern sense until 1936. From 1915, the J models, those with alternators, had simple switches for the ignition current. From 1926, they had consoles with two switches, one for ignition current and one for lights. But we would not call them "locks" now. The "keys" used can be replaced with strips of sheet metal, screwdriver blades, etc.

How does an ignition switch work?

An ignition lock has three parts: a housing, the lock cylinder and the switch. The housing determines whether the ignition lock fits on the triple clamp, on the tank, under the tank, or on the Bates universal mount.

The lock cylinder is the part that can be turned with the appropriate key. It prevents malicious or careless people from operating the switch.

Finally, the (rotary) switch connects - usually in several stages - different electrical contacts to each other. The switch mechanism is spring-loaded. On the back of the ignition lock are the contacts with their designations.

I have an ignition switch without designations on the terminals. How do I know how to connect it?

If you want to find out at which position of the ignition lock which contacts or wires are connected, you just need a multimeter. At the Ohm (Ω) position, test the connections in pairs. Write down or paint on the measurement results and save or file them.

Can an ignition lock break?

Unfortunately yes. Ignition switches are wearing parts. The springs and other parts of the mechanism can wear out or even break. Then the contacts no longer close. The reason are wear and/or vibrations, which are transmitted to the inner workings. Even those who constantly have the whole bunch of keys hanging on the ignition key run the risk that their ignition lock will eventually stop working. Put a cool key fob on it so you can find your key in your pocket. But it's best to leave all other keys out. And feel free to maintain the lock cylinder with WD-40 or dry lubricant. It will thank you with a longer life.

Have any questions?

Our service team will be glad to help out: Mondays - Thursdays 08:00-17:00 CET, Fridays 08:00-16:00 CET, Phone: +49 / 931 250 61 16, eMail: service@wwag.com