Ignition Switches

Nice reproduction of the original double switch panel. Comes ready to be installed.

Nice reproduction of the original switch panel with amperemeter and dash lamp. Comes ready to be installed.

Authentic duplicate of the lower support bracket for the switch assembly/dash.

Authentic duplicates of the switch assembly fastening bolts.

Chrome-plated reproductions of the OEM ignition switch used on models from 1936 to present.

Side hinge ignition switches with barrel style key. Feature modern wire terminals and locking system. Easy to adapt to older bikes with wiring modification. Also available with neck lock and pin.

An updated duplicate of the late-style ignition switch with the smooth action and superb dependability of internal switching contacts. This eliminates the troublesome pole-to-bar contacts found on the early OEM  switch. Highly resistant to vibration and corrosion.

Reproduction of the original ignition switch for FX, FXR and Sportster models. Fits also in conjunction with all W&W ignition switch brackets. Key positions are: OFF-IGNITION-IGNITION+LIGHT.

If you don’t like the standard ring nut that comes with your round type ignition switch, here’s your quality alternative. Hex style flange nuts which are CNC machined from stainless steel. Now you can tighten your switch down with a spanner so it won’t shake loose after a few miles down the road. A drop of thread locker doesn’t hurt though.

These switches are stock on all Dyna Glide and Sportster 1990→ (ecc. FXDWG) models. They feature the round key design.

Waterproof universal ignition switch which will work trouble-free even in heavy downpours. The switch features OFF-RUN-START and HORN positions/functions. Can be used without a starter relay. The OFF position can be used to ground magnetos.

Terminal and thumb screw assembly which can be mounted on any suitable place on the motorcycle. It connects the battery’s ground (negative) terminal and cable with the frame.
After installation you have two options:
use your Kill Bill Switch like an ignition switch. Half a turn out and the current is interrupted., use your Kill Bill Switch as protection from manipulation and theft. When you leave your bike remove the thumb screw and thus disconnect the battery from the electrical system.,

Pre-TwinCam engines have a spring loaded ball check valve to prevent the engine oil from seeping down to the crankcase. These check valves don’t last forever. If you try to start your engine after a lengthy period of inactivity (e.g. winter), the oil in the crank case gets forcefully ejected via the breather. Creating an ungodly mess on your garage floor.
Installing a manually operated valve in the oil feed line from tank to oil pump can prevent this, but carries the risk of forgetting to open it. Resulting in major engine trouble. And we mean major.
This here nifty PanAm shut off valve is also installed in the feed line. With a little difference: once closed, the ignition is cut out too. No inadvertently starting the engine with this baby.
The tough polyamide housing has several mounting holes which offer all sorts of possibilities to secure it to the frame or other convenient hard points.

If you are tired of reaching down to the frame neck with your key, trying to find the ignition switch, this relocation kit is your hot ticket. It comprises all necessary parts, except for the ignition switch, to install a late style Fat Bob ignition switch on your Street Bob speedo dash.
The advantage is that you only use your key to lock/unlock the ignition switch, thereafter you remove and stow it. No more tumbling keys (mostly including the security fob) at the frame neck during the ride, where they scratch the paint or possibly get lost. In addition, the relocated switch restitutes that classic Harley look on your bike.