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Shop Electrical Alternators and Corresponding Regulators
Alternators for Big Twins 1970→ and Sportsters 1984→

Alternators for Big Twins 1970→ and Sportsters 1984→

Spyke Charging System
Spyke Charging System
This charging system features a forged steel rotor with a thicker spline for better sprocket shaft engagement. The magnets are encapsulated in a protective barrier to resist vibrations. The kit further includes a high performance stator and a voltage regulator in black. After installation the system provides an increased output of 32 amps (stock on some 1989-up Evo models) for heavily accessorized motorcycles.
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Accel Charging System for Shovelhead and Evolution
Accel Charging System for Shovelhead and Evolution
Complete charging system by Accel. The heavy-duty rotor features magnets which are completely enclosed in stainless steel and a super thick splined hub to avoid cracks. Needs no shims in most cases.
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Cycle Electric Stators for Big Twin Models
Cycle Electric Stators for Big Twin Models
Stator coils by Cycle Electric for Big Twin models from 1970 on, for FL(H), FX, Softail, Dyna and Touring models with 1200, 1340, 1440 or 1570 cc.
All Evolution and Twin Cam stators are located in a hot environment, saturated with primary lube. The insulation of Cycle Electric stator coils is able to withstand temperatures of 600° F to eliminate stator burn out. Better low speed output reduce battery discharge at idle. The lower operating temperature enhances service life. Improved plug rubber components will not swell or separate from the connectors.
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Cycle Electric Stators for Sportster Models
Cycle Electric Stators for Sportster Models
Stator coils by Cycle Electric for the last Ironheads from 1984 on and Evolution Sportster models.
All Evolution and Twin Cam stators are located in a hot environment, saturated with primary lube. The insulation of Cycle Electric stator coils is able to withstand temperatures of 600° F to eliminate stator burn out. Better low speed output reduce battery discharge at idle. The lower operating temperature enhances service life. Improved plug rubber components will not swell or separate from the connectors.
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Standard Stators for Big Twin Models
Standard Stators for Big Twin Models
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Standard Stators for Sportster Models
Standard Stators for Sportster Models
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Rotors
Rotors
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Mounting Screws for Stators
Mounting Screws for Stators
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Locking Plate for Big Twin Stators
Locking Plate for Big Twin Stators
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Stator Plug Retainer for Big Twin Stators
Stator Plug Retainer for Big Twin Stators
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Plug Retainer
Plug Retainer
Use these little retainers to avoid loose plug connection of the regulator.
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Shim Kit for Big Twin Rotors
Shim Kit for Big Twin Rotors
When installing a later 32 amp stator on 1970-88 Big Twins these shims are required to provide proper rotor to stator alignment.
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Deutsch DTP Connectors 4-Way for Regulators System
Deutsch DTP Connectors 4-Way for Regulators System
Version of the Deutsch DT series for higher currents and wire cross-sections.
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Replacement Parts
Replacement Parts

The alternator

The alternator on the Harley is not a completely separate component, as it is on the car. The stator - the coil or winding in which the current is generated - is bolted directly to the crankcase. The rotor - also known as the "pole wheel" in German - mounts on the left end of the crankshaft. With one exception: in 1986-1990 Harley-Davidson experimented with the clutch basket as a rotor on Sportster models, evidently not an ideal configuration. The regulator, which is always necessary, can theoretically be placed anywhere on the motorcycle. It makes sense, of course, to place it in front of the engine so that it can dissipate its heat while riding.

For windings as well as for regulators, we prefer to rely on the products of Cycle Electric, Inc. from Ohio for quality reasons.

How can I test the AC alternator if the battery is not charging (properly)?

The test is simple and logical and involves several steps. You need a standard multimeter to do it. Since the engine must be running for part of the measurements, the battery should be well charged.

First, access the battery and measure the voltage between the two poles. For starting without problems, the voltage (so-called open circuit voltage) should be at least 12.7 V. After starting, the voltage must rise above 13 V at idle, and when turning the throttle, the voltage must continue to rise. The maximum is 14.4 - 14.6 V. If the voltage measured at the poles during operation is above the described range, either the battery is ripe for replacement or the regulator.

If the voltage at (engine) idle is in the range of the open-circuit voltage and it increases little or not at all when accelerating, the first suspicion is always on the regulator. For further measurements, the engine must be off. In the case of a regulator without a ground cable, the resistance from the housing to the vehicle ground must be measured. For a regulator with a ground cable, the resistance at the ground point. It must be 0 - 0.5 Ω. A higher resistance can hinder the functioning of the regulator and must be eliminated.

To measure the stator, disconnect the connector from the stator to the regulator. Attention: never disconnect this connector while the motor is running! From each of the exposed terminals of the coils, the resistance to vehicle ground must be infinite. A measurable resistance from any of the terminals to vehicle ground suggests a ground fault. The stator must then be removed and tested separately.

Have any questions?

Our service team will be glad to help out: Mondays - Thursdays 08:00-17:00 CET, Fridays 08:00-16:00 CET, Phone: +49 / 931 250 61 16, eMail: service@wwag.com