Universal horns

Original horns do not fit every style. Original horns can be just too big. Original horns can sound too modest or be too quiet. Original replacements are not always available or are simply too expensive: all good reasons to choose a universal horn over OEM counterparts. This was already the case in the 1920s, which is why, in addition to the well-known chopper and mini horns, there are also reproductions of the Bosch and Noris parts that were standard on many motorcycles until World War 2.

Simply replace the horn, is that possible?

Horns are usually attached to a strip of spring steel or a sheet metal package. Either you replace them together with this sheet metal or you carefully loosen the single nut on the back (in most cases M8 or 5/16"). Holders made of sheet metal or spring steel can be made by yourself. The spring plates are used to decouple vibrations, you can also do this with silent blocks. (Harley has also done this on some models.) When connecting, you just have to figure out how the horn button is switched. If it has only one wire and switches to ground, you need a horn with two lugs. If the horn button has two wires and none of them goes to ground, you need a horn with only one connector or you put one of the two horn connectors to ground.

Do I have to pay attention to anything with the new horn?

When connecting it, just be careful not to overload the horn button on the handlebars or the circuit in the custom black box. Really loud horns have to run via relays because of the high current consumption. If in doubt, briefly connect the horn directly to a battery and measure the current consumption with a multimeter. 3 A are ok for a simple horn button, the good old 72800-26, which is screwed directly to the handlebars, can also handle 5 A. Above that, it's better to use a relay.