How to Change Handlebar Grips on a Harley-Davidson Motorcycle

Do Handlebar Grips Make a Difference?

Yes. Grips aren’t just cosmetic - they affect comfort, control, and throttle precision. The hardness of the grip material influences how much vibration is transmitted to the rider. Harder compounds can pass more high-frequency vibration into the hands, which may lead to discomfort or even numbness over time.

Worn or poorly fitted grips can compromise control. A grip that does not seat securely on the handlebar can slip under load, while excessive play in the throttle sleeve may cause stiff or inconsistent operation. In all cases, the throttle must move no worse than before service and remain fully controllable.

Historically, motorcycle twist grips evolved from the early Hedström-style mechanisms of the 1910s, designed to regulate both throttle and ignition. On Harleys, grip function varies significantly depending on the year and throttle system.

Understanding Harley Handlebar Grip Types

Handlebar grips are not universal - left and right grips differ by era, function and throttle mechanism:

Pre-1975 (up to 1974)

• Left grip: Twist grip controls ignition manually. Mechanism is inside the handlebar: a steel sleeve with an internal spiral converts rotational motion into linear movement. The rubber grip is pressed on over the steel sleeve.
• Right grip: Twist grip controls throttle manually. A steel sleeve with an internal spiral inside the handlebar converts rotational motion into linear movement on the throttle lever. Rubber grip fits over/on the sleeve.
• Key point: Both grips have functional mechanisms built into the handlebar.

1975-2021

• Left grip: Non-functional; typically a plain rubber sleeve.
• Right grip: Controls throttle mechanically via cable(s). Depending on year:
• 1975-1980: One throttle cable (“open” cable).
• 1981: Two throttle cables (“open/close”), still used with the earlier separate throttle housing and pre-1982 style switches.
• 1982–1995: Two throttle cables routed through the switch housing (integrated throttle and switch assembly).
• 1996–2021: Two cables routed through the switch housing (revised).
• Grip construction: Rubber sleeve is usually glued to the throttle sleeve, which rotates the cable(s).

Drive-by-Wire Models (e.g., Touring 2008→, Softail 2016→)

• Left grip: Standard rubber sleeve, non-functional.
• Right grip: Rubber sleeve bonded to a plastic throttle sleeve that rotates over an electronic throttle position sensor (potentiometer) inside the handlebar. No mechanical cables; rotation sends a voltage signal to the ECU. Must be replaced as a unit.

How to change handlebar grips on a motorcycle

The procedure for changing grips depends on the handlebar side, the function of the grip, and the type of throttle mechanism. These factors can vary not only by model but also by year, and the timing of system changes - such as the transition to drive-by-wire throttles - differs across models, and can therefore slightly vary from the timeframes above. It’s strongly recommended to consult the service manual for your specific Harley-Davidson to confirm the throttle type and grip function. Having this information is essential for ensuring that handlebar grips are replaced correctly, maintaining proper throttle response.

Helpful tools:

• Screwdrivers and hex keys
• Sharp blade or box cutter
• Clean cloths or shop towels

Helpful extras:

• Compressed air and an air gun with a nozzle
• Thin plastic or wooden object (like chopsticks) to lift grip edges
• Brake cleaner or Isopropyl alcohol
• Water or ethanol (do not use petroleum products on rubber)
• Wire
• Twisting pliers

Lubricants: Water or alcohol for rubber grips. Avoid petroleum products - they can damage rubber. Glue optional for hard plastics or aluminum; not usually needed for standard rubber.

Pro tip: Some racers secure rubber grips with a double wire loop around the edge - works well for off-road or race situations.

Handlebar Grips and Adhesives

Correct use of lubricants and adhesives is essential when installing new grips.

For most rubber grips, temporary lubricants such as water or isopropyl alcohol are sufficient. These liquids help the grip slide into position and then evaporate, allowing the grip to stay firmly in place without permanent bonding. Some modern grips made from thermoplastic vulcanizates (TPV), such as Lowbrow, Biltwell and Three Miles grip sets, fit extremely tight by design. In this case, a light spray of WD-40 inside the grip will make installation much easier. While moist, it allows the grip to slide on smoothly. As the solvent evaporates, the grip settles and bonds securely to the handlebar or throttle sleeve. Allow adequate drying time before riding.

All-purpose-glue may be used in specific situations, such as:

• Hard plastic or historically correct reproduction grips

However, permanent adhesives - some riders use silicone, others general-purpose glue - are generally not recommended for standard rubber grips, because the adhesive must fully cure before the grip can function properly. If applied incorrectly, the adhesive won’t hold; if applied correctly, the grip cannot be removed later without damaging it.

As an alternative to adhesives, rubber grips can be secured mechanically using safety wire wrapped around the inner and outer edge of the grip. This method is common on off-road and race bikes. A PS safety wiring set, suitable stainless safety wire, and safety wire twisting pliers make the job easy.

How to Remove Old Grips from a Harley Handlebar

Identify the Grip Type

Before removing, determine whether the grips are:

• Simple rubber grips over handlebar or throttle sleeve
• Part of an integrated throttle grip assembly
• Right-side twist grips beneath switch housings (only throttle tube is constrained; rubber sleeve can usually be removed with careful leverage or lubrication)

Cable-Operated Models: Reducing cable tension can make removal easier. If you plan to replace the entire grip assembly (plastic or steel sleeve with rubber), you must loosen and unhook the throttle cables. Simple rubber grips, however, can often be removed without disconnecting the cables.

Drive-by-Wire Models: Extra care is required to avoid damaging the throttle sensor; the complete grip-and-sleeve assembly may need replacement.

How Do I Remove Old Grips Without Damaging the Handlebar?

Grip removal depends on side, material, and era. The goal is to remove the grip safely without damaging the handlebar, throttle sleeve, or sensor.

1. Rubber Grips

Non-glued rubber grips:

• Can usually be removed easily on both left and right sides.
• Use compressed air under the edge or a thin plastic/wooden tool with a small amount of water or brake cleaner to reduce friction.
• Once loosened, the grip slides off with minimal effort.

Glued or hardened grips:

• Common on right-side throttle grips from 1975 onward, where the rubber is glued to the throttle sleeve.
• In these cases, rubber and throttle sleeve often must be replaced together; the grip cannot be removed separately without risking damage.
• Left-side grips (1975→, non-functional) are usually simple rubber; can be slid off with lubrication or cut carefully if hardened or glued on by previous owners.

Pre-1975 twist grips:

• Left (ignition) and right (throttle) grips have functional steel sleeves with internal spirals.
• Rubber covers slide over the sleeve and can usually be removed carefully with lubrication.

2. Aluminum or Hard Plastic Grips

Usually screwed onto the handlebar: the left-side grip is secured by a set-screw, while the right-side grip rotates freely within the limits set by the throttle cables or potentiometer. They are not glued or slid on.

• Left side: Remove by unscrewing the set-screw and sliding the grip off.
• Right side: Open the switch housing, unhook the throttle cables if necessary, and then replace the grip.
• Lubrication is generally unnecessary.
• Avoid prying or cutting, as this can damage the grip or handlebar.

3. Throttle Side Considerations

Cable-operated right grips:

• If the rubber is glued to the throttle sleeve (on common stock throttle sleeves 1975→), the entire sleeve and rubber should usually be replaced.
• Throttle cables only need to be unhooked if replacing the complete sleeve; otherwise, removing the rubber on stock grips is quite difficult up to impossible.

Drive-by-wire right grips:

• Rubber is bonded to a plastic throttle sleeve; the rubber cannot be removed separately.
• Should replace the complete grip-and-sleeve assembly.