Factory style open end wrenches for the large manifold plumber nuts.
- for manifold nuts
- steel, parkerized, thickness: 8mm
The Cyclery Manifold Wrenches
Just like the original HD patterns The Cyclery manifold wrenches are cut from steel plates and comparably short. Not the usual tool quality one could think, but particularly for these manifold wrenches it is not worthwhile to make them stronger, because you simply should not tighten your manifold nuts beyond their capacity. If the mechanic exceeds it, he runs the high risk, that the intake nipples in the cylinder head brake loose, which spells disaster, i.e. very expensive repairs!
The same applies for loosening manifold nuts. The experienced mechanic heats the nuts (after he took off the gas tanks, of course), instead of applying excessive torque on the cold nuts, which can be stubborn after baking tight for 20 years.
Faster is not better!
The use of heavy duty tools with high torques led to every second original cylinder head having loose screw-in intake nipples. Main cause for this are leaking manifolds, of course.
Sometimes the manifold nuts just came loose and it is sufficient to retighten them to solve the problem. However, in many cases the nuts are tight already and now it is totally ineffective to try to tighten the nuts even more, instead of investigating the leak source. This could be the seal rings, the manifold surfaces or loose intake nipples.
If all is within specs it is absolutely sufficient to tighten the manifold nuts with normal force and your intake is air tight.
W&W recommends PEEK manifold seals, which compared to original brass seals feature superior material properties.
PEEK Super Seal Rings for Schebler Manifolds
Have any questions?
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