Accurate reproductions of the front forks for IOE models thru 1929. This fork principle was very successful and used by the Factory for more than two decades. It proved to be so effective that other brands, as the England made Brough Superior, adopted it and marketed copies under the name Castle Fork. To prevent rust the IOE forks are shipped with an anti-rust primer, which should be washed off prior to painting.

A design by the historic American motorcycle company The Flying Merkel, which existed from 1902 until World War I. The light and sturdy construction soon got the attention of race departmens of other brands, so by the end of the Teens it first appeared in a suspension-less version on Harley-Davidson factory board track race bikes. This is a true to detail reproduction of the period racing fork with a fork stem to fit IOE HD models.
Length is indicated from the assumed axle center line to seat of lower steering head bearing.

Accurate reproduction of the upper clamp for original I-Beam forks. Drop forged steel just like the original.

Accurate reproduction of the upper clamp for the front forks of IOE models. Drop forged steel just like the original.

Accurate reproduction of the 1929 upper clamps of the front forks of IOE models. They also serve as brackets for dual headlights. Drop forged steel just like the original.

Accurate reproduction of the upper clamps of the front forks of D and V models 1930. They also serve as brackets for dual headlights. Drop forged steel just like the original.

Back in the days, when most roads were a far cry from what we know today the Ride Control was standard equipment and an indispensable device for the rider to react to road conditions. By turning the hand wheel you can adjust the spring action and the bounce is taken out of the front wheel on rough roads for safe riding at high speeds. As a rule of thumb you decrease friction the better the road gets and the lower the speed is, at which you ride. This detailed reproduction comes complete, ready to bolt on. A must for any restauration.

Take the squirrely feeling from springer fork rides and improve handling significantly with one of these stock style steering dampers. Installation requires stock fork stem and frame. Each set comes complete and ready-to-install. Kits are available with levers and frame brackets in a chromed or zinc-plated finish.

Wobbly brake pedals leave a bad impression to expert observers and are annoying for the rider. These oversize brake lever studs which will take the slack out of your foot brake lever in no time. Just ream your lever to size and you are all set.

Variations of the accessory clutch and brake pedal pads with a The Cyclery logo embossed into the contact surface. 1/2” thick restoration quality. Sold individually.

Accurate reproduction of the frame clamp and and swivel connector for the shifter shaft of 1915-1929 IOE models.

Reproductions of the rear frame stands. Rear fender clips and mounting studs must be ordered separately.

True to original reproduction of the side stands with all associated components as used on V models from 1930-1936.

Windshields with the lower part made from canvas are recommended to be be mounted with an apron guard, sometimes called hand guard, to protect the windshield fabric from being scuffed by the fork springs.

A second life is possible for your worn down rocker shafts. These repair bushings have smaller than stock IDs so you can ream them individiually to size after you dressed your oval shafts on a lathe back to a perfectly round condition.

Stock replacement parts for I-beam fork fork type steering damper.

The suspended front forks that H-D used in the two-cylinder models with IOE engine were —as was customary at the time— assembled and brazed from a whole lot of individual parts made of different materials. Today, as then, brazing alloy is the most suitable joining material for such different materials as cast iron and steel tubes.
The side tubes of the rigid fork section and the spring fork were held together by cast parts. On those forks that have survived to this day, these "bridges" are found often weakened and damaged by rust, of course to the riders grief. Before you completely scrap a fork and buy an all-new The cyclery fork, you may consider a repair. For these above-mentioned castings are just as well available from the guys at The Cyclery as individual spare parts. They're cast in EN-GJL-300 and then machined to the exact size at the crucial points, both here in Good Old Germany. This material has vibration and stress damping abilities and offers sufficient strength and wear resistance for another 100 years of fork life.
The parts must be soldered or welded and should therefore not be used by someone who has no experience in this field.