Home of the good stuff

Reproduction frames which can be used as stock replacements or as a basis to build a bobber or chopper from scratch. Dimensions and details closely follow the factory counterparts. Most castings feature raised numbers and markings just like the factory used them. The brake shaft tube has pressed-in bushings which are reamed to size. Each frame comes with its year correct toolbox mount.

The Cannonball StealthStarter system converts your classic kickstart-only motorcycle to electric start. After installation you just push the button or turn the key to fire up your classic Big Twin.
The Cannonball SSK electric start system bolts between kicker cover and transmission case. The stock kick starter can be retained. Due to the system’s low profile, only ¾” (19 mm) wide construction the overall appearance of your motorcycle will remain virtually unchanged. Primary drive, primary housing and oil tank will stay untouched.
Installation is fairly easy and straightforward. The kit includes everything needed for the conversion except for the extended throwout bearing, battery, wires and starter button/switch.
If the bike is still equipped with an early stock 6 V electrical system, you will have to convert this to 12 V. Depending on the configuration some other options are available separately.
Since the kicker cover moves 19 mm to the right the following modifications may be necessary:
A stock 2-1 exhaust system will have to be routed slightly outward to compensate for the offset of the kicker cover. , A longer clutch release lever will be necessary on rod actuated configurations like Moustraps or Footclutch. A longer lever can be ordered seperately if needed., A extended throwout bearing must be ordered seperately for your type of clutch pushrod since the stock pushrod will be 19 mm too short.,
A longer brake crossover shaft will be necessary on all bikes using the original mechanical rear brake in conjunction with the original 2-1 or similar exhaust. A longer crossover shaft can be ordered separately if needed. , Original rear fenders need to be slightly dented for starter motor clearance. Alternatively, an aluminum “Dent” can be ordered separately. In this case the fender needs to be cut out to allow the “dent” to be mounted with the original lower fender mount bolt and the two oil tank/battery tray bolts.,

The Cannonball StealthStarter system converts your classic kickstart-only motorcycle to electric start. After installation you just push the button or turn the key to fire up your classic Big Twin.
The Cannonball SSK electric start system bolts between kicker cover and transmission case. The stock kick starter can be retained. Due to the system’s low profile, only ¾” (19 mm) wide construction the overall appearance of your motorcycle will remain virtually unchanged. Primary drive, primary housing and oil tank will stay untouched.
Installation is fairly easy and straightforward. The kit includes everything needed for the conversion except for the extended throwout bearing, battery, wires and starter button/switch.
If the bike is still equipped with an early stock 6 V electrical system, you will have to convert this to 12 V. Depending on the configuration some other options are available separately.
Since the kicker cover moves 19 mm to the right the following modifications may be necessary:
A stock 2-1 exhaust system will have to be routed slightly outward to compensate for the offset of the kicker cover. , A longer clutch release lever will be necessary on rod actuated configurations like Moustraps or Footclutch. A longer lever can be ordered seperately if needed., A extended throwout bearing must be ordered seperately for your type of clutch pushrod since the stock pushrod will be 19 mm too short.,
In case your bike uses the older 47698-58A transmission mounting plate with the extension for the primary adjuster screw, the extension needs to be removed or our Cannonball SSK-S transmission mounting plate needs to be used.

The main challenge during restoration and assembly of Flathead engines is the exchange and alignment of the bushings in the right crankcase and the gear cover. Nine bronze bushings need to be installed and line reamed to ensure that four cams and the pinion shaft with its gears turn smoothly. This is a major task and requires several special reamers, which your average workshop does not have. The problem increases when case and cover were not factory matched.
These Cannonball cases for 1937-1948 Big Twin Flatheads feature a pre-fitted gear cover with all bushings and pins installed and are line bored for a set of Andrews cam gears, which are also included. This work is performed in Germany on a coordinate line boring machine, which is superior to reaming. The cover also has its flutter valve and spring-loaded oil separator seal ring installed. All this will cut the working time for the complete engine assembly at least in half and guarantees a quietly running motor, just as if assembled in Milwaukee, provided that the remaining valve train is in good order, too.

These Knucklehead style cylinder heads are precise reproductions of the stock counterparts and show all the small details like cast-in number tags and foundry markings. Thus they make for great replacements for your worn top end or to build a factory look-alike engine. They are manufactured after 1940-1947 heads with large intake ports. The pre-installed, but unmachined valve seats are sized for stock intake and exhaust valves and hardened for the use of today’s unleaded fuels.

Reproductions of Knucklehead style cylinder heads, cast from aluminum. The advantages of this material are obvious: besides the significant weight savings of approx. 4 kg per head, they dissipate heat much better than their cast iron counterparts. That's why the Motor Company implemented aluminum heads on the follow-up Panhead series.
On the down side you have a somewhat lower robustness, which is not really relevant on stock motors, however, when high revs and compression rates, or nitrous and supercharging come into play, well, that’s a different story. So, as always, race oriented riders and their mechanics have to decide which route they would follow.
The design closely matches that of 1940-1947 heads with large intake ports. But technically the Cannonball heads are not just 1:1 copies of the cast iron patterns. That wouldn't work. For a safe operation of both valve seats and guides the manufacturer established additional material around them to securely hold everything in place. Valve seats are pre-installed and sized for stock intake and exhaust valves, but unmachined. They are hardened for the use of today’s unleaded fuels. Steel inserts for the head bolts feature factory threads. The heads show all the small details like cast-in number tags and foundry markings, so they make for excellent stock replacements or for building a performance engine with factory look when you camouflage them with black paint.

Protect your valuable and irreplaceable original crankcases from worn-beyond-repair original cylinders (a.k.a. time bombs). These accurate reproductions are cast from state-of-the-art alloys to modern specs and stand up to all horsepowers you can pack on an IOE lower end. Now you can finally have both that stock factory look and a safe engine. Racers around the globe use them with great success for years. Sold as pairs only.

Once upon a time when there weren’t any custom parts you could buy from your local shop, the VL fork was a very popular item because it made your Knuckle or Panhead bobber different from the next guy’s scooter. Besides you gained half an inch of length compared to 1936-up Springer forks for improved ground clearance and a more stretched look. Now it’s time to revive those days of the golden 40’s and 50’s with the Cannonball version of H-D’s VL type fork.
Manufactured just like the original, which means I-beams and connecting braces are drop forged on a huge 10 meter forge hammer. This is the only procedure that guarantees these components stand up to the job.
The problems with installing the OEM fork were the large fork stem and the handlebar mounting so the Cannonball fork is modified here. It features a Ø1” fork stem that works with the centering collar (available seperately) for 1936-up ball bearings. Moreover the stem also features two Ø1” bearing seats for the use of Big Twin tapered roller bearings without any modifications. The leg tops accept the 36-up Springer inline handlebars. This makes installation a snap compared to the original counterpart.
Certificate of stability for 4-speed Big Twins thru 1986. Length is measured from axle center line to seat of lower steering head bearing.
Although these Custom forks are intended for 1936-1957 rigid frame Big Twins they can be mounted with later frames, too, provided you have/install matching frame head bearings. The builder has to consider rake, trail, overall chassis geometry, brake function, etc.

The retro custom bike builder scene sometimes likes to experiment with parts of different brands on the same bike project. For example Indian parts are installed on Harleys and vice versa, with often astonishing results. Among the most positive mergings was the combination of an Indian leaf-spring fork with an H-D Big Twin rigid frame. This type of fork was used by the Wigwam in the 1910 to 1945 period which proves that this was a very successful suspension principle with excellent driving chracteristics.
Of course, the stock item doesn't fit a Harley frame without major alterations, so W&W decided to produce its own version which allows such an installation without many difficulties. But, of course, not another quick and dirty copy with ugly welding seams and wrong rocker geometry. The Cannonball fork is a professionaly made part with a design as close as possible to its original pattern, manufactured by expert craftsmen in Italy. The first complete prototype was rigorously tested during W&W’s winter tour in Northern Canada and after that sent to the German technical authorities for a certificate of stability (included). Both tests were passed without any flaws. After that production started.
All test rides were performed with a rigid frame, 30° neck chassis, with which both handling and braking characteristics proved well balanced and stable.
The Cannonball leaf spring fork features a fork stem with two Ø1” bearing seats for the use of 1949-up Timken bearings and leg tops to accept the 36-up Springer handlebars (inline). A horizontal bracket to mount the headlamp is also there. The fork is wide enough to accept disc brake or drum brake systems. Rockers are drilled for 17 mm axles but can be enlarged to 19 mm. Neither axle, spacers nor brake are included and must be purchased or fabricated separately. Each fork is shipped preassembled to insure proper function and fitment, however, all components are bare and require painting or plating.

Excellent reproduction of the famous Mesinger No.3 cushion suspension seat as used on Harleys and Indians from 1925 to 1933 and on the Henderson KJ from 1929-1931. This seat has the saddle top stretched only over a frame, thus the central area is, so to speak, self-supporting. The top's tension is adjusted by means of a set screw. This feature and the anatomically shaped central vent area make the Mesinger No. 3 one of the most comfortable of all solo seats. It also fits models after 1934 with a large saddle tee. The saddle cover is made of the finest leather and has the embossed Mesinger logo of the original template.

Faithful reproductions of the H-D Solo Seats with non-vented (= undrilled) seat pan and open, unrolled edges as it was original 1934-1939. Just like the factory counterparts they feature thin stuffing for slim appearance. Another nice detail is the patent stamp on the bottom leather strip. These seats sport excellent craftsmanship and top quality leather.

No matter if you race at the Baja California 1000 or if you’re on a short trip to the nearby stone quarry, your Bates Baja bars will be ready for it. And on asphalt, too, they cut a fine figure, respectively the rider, as the Bates Baja bars provide a relaxed and upright seating postion. As you would expect from offroad handlebars they feature a cross bar which does not only give additional strength but also comes in handy to mount a GPS system, map holder, accessory bag, etc.

NEVER RUN DRY.

You know those summer days, when you let your forks decide which mountain road to follow? You usually end up in a nice spot in the woods and get the camp fire going only to discover that the next open bar is 12 miles away down the valley. No trouble with this here go-anywhere handle-bar by Bates. This bar is always open 24/7, just fill it up with your favourite spirit and go. Handmade in super low numbers from food-grade stainless steel.

What started as an April Fool's joke is now a stainless steel reality in 4 different heavily limited flavours: Long Beach, Malibu, Glendale or Big Sur, classic handlebar styles ready to be filled with any type of liquid. Raise your glass on the lakeshore, on the beach, in the forest, or right at the top of the mountain pass.
These handlebars come in a Hollywood movie grade wooden box with sliding lid. Included are three aircraft type fuel testing cups, and a pair of white cotton gloves for a scratch free and clean assembly of the handlebars.

Damn! Rolled past the bar again!
If you are looking for significantly more stopping power, you should consider replacing your classic drum brake system with a disc brake.
After extensive 3D simulations on the computer and countless test kilometers on any terrain, we can now rightly claim that this brake meets our high requirements.
This kit by Cannonball converts Big Twin, Servi-car or WLC Springer forks from drum brake to disc brake. Each kit includes a dual piston caliper with pads, caliper bracket, 10” disc rotor, brake anchor, wheel hub adapter, and all small parts necessary for final assembly. Brake lines and handlebar master cylinder are not included and must be ordered separately.
Kits that are delivered without axle reuse the OEM axle (pls see article details).

The complete rear brake system for 1917-1922 IOE models. However it fits models 1915→. It includes the backing plate, outer and inner band and all linkages. You just need the linings which we recommend to have applied and fitted to your brake drum by a professional brake shop.

If you’re serious about wrenching your Harley, you’ll always be looking for that special part that makes all the difference. Introducing the legendary Mag Wheel.
When in the 60s car drag racing started to move from being a pastime of a few aficionados to serious motor sport, equipment got ever more important. Among other things lightweight and truly round wheels capable of taking hard loads got popular. And there it was, the magical wheel, the dragster front wheel, cast from magnesium alloy. It was called mag wheel. Not long, and the first chopper jocks tried to bolt these wheels to their rides. A favorite ever since: the 12 spoke variety.
The mag wheels of yore with their respective sizes of 15” and 18” are extremely rare by now and about as easy to find as an Ironhead Sportster that starts on the first kick. Even if one of those beauties can be unearthed, it should be clear that time has never stopped nibbling away at the metal — and the task of making them compatible with Harley brakes and axles is another story.
That’s why W&W had the Cannonball MAG-12 wheels cast using the latest technology and state-of-the-art aluminum alloys which guarantee long-term trouble-free service. The hub design was changed, too, in that it accepts special adapters which allow for the installation of common H-D drum and disc brake systems.
The Cannonball MAG-12 takes its styling cues from the originals, but is certified to take loads of 350 kg per wheel, and engineered to be compatible with a variety of Harley brake and sprocket setups. The available sizes of 16” and 19” give a wide scope of application for that next custom project.
Choose from wheels with a barrel polished or MAG finish. For the latter the barrel polished wheels are finely bead-blasted to achieve a dull magnesium-like appearance.

Racing style gas tanks for Big Twins shaped after the legendary WR model tanks of the late forties and early fifties. The beautiful narrow design and excellent European craftsmanship really stand out in the crowd. Each set is completely handmade by experts. Unlike the original WR pattern these tanks are supposed to contain gas in both halves.
To avoid an unsightly gap between engine and gas tanks our WR Style tanks are model specific and sit close to the motor which looks purpose-built instead of universal.