The Cannonball StealthStarter system converts your classic kickstart-only motorcycle to electric start. After installation you just push the button or turn the key to fire up your classic Big Twin.
The Cannonball SSK electric start system bolts between kicker cover and transmission case. The stock kick starter can be retained. Due to the system’s low profile, only ¾” (19 mm) wide construction the overall appearance of your motorcycle will remain virtually unchanged. Primary drive, primary housing and oil tank will stay untouched.
Installation is fairly easy and straightforward. The kit includes everything needed for the conversion except for the extended throwout bearing, battery, wires and starter button/switch.
If the bike is still equipped with an early stock 6 V electrical system, you will have to convert this to 12 V. Depending on the configuration some other options are available separately.
Since the kicker cover moves 19 mm to the right the following modifications may be necessary:
A stock 2-1 exhaust system will have to be routed slightly outward to compensate for the offset of the kicker cover. , A longer clutch release lever will be necessary on rod actuated configurations like Moustraps or Footclutch. A longer lever can be ordered seperately if needed., A extended throwout bearing must be ordered seperately for your type of clutch pushrod since the stock pushrod will be 19 mm too short.,
A longer brake crossover shaft will be necessary on all bikes using the original mechanical rear brake in conjunction with the original 2-1 or similar exhaust. A longer crossover shaft can be ordered separately if needed. , Original rear fenders need to be slightly dented for starter motor clearance. Alternatively, an aluminum “Dent” can be ordered separately. In this case the fender needs to be cut out to allow the “dent” to be mounted with the original lower fender mount bolt and the two oil tank/battery tray bolts.,

The Cannonball StealthStarter system converts your classic kickstart-only motorcycle to electric start. After installation you just push the button or turn the key to fire up your classic Big Twin.
The Cannonball SSK electric start system bolts between kicker cover and transmission case. The stock kick starter can be retained. Due to the system’s low profile, only ¾” (19 mm) wide construction the overall appearance of your motorcycle will remain virtually unchanged. Primary drive, primary housing and oil tank will stay untouched.
Installation is fairly easy and straightforward. The kit includes everything needed for the conversion except for the extended throwout bearing, battery, wires and starter button/switch.
If the bike is still equipped with an early stock 6 V electrical system, you will have to convert this to 12 V. Depending on the configuration some other options are available separately.
Since the kicker cover moves 19 mm to the right the following modifications may be necessary:
A stock 2-1 exhaust system will have to be routed slightly outward to compensate for the offset of the kicker cover. , A longer clutch release lever will be necessary on rod actuated configurations like Moustraps or Footclutch. A longer lever can be ordered seperately if needed., A extended throwout bearing must be ordered seperately for your type of clutch pushrod since the stock pushrod will be 19 mm too short.,
In case your bike uses the older 47698-58A transmission mounting plate with the extension for the primary adjuster screw, the extension needs to be removed or our Cannonball SSK-S transmission mounting plate needs to be used.

Our electric start system just got even more stealthy.
The Cannonball Stealth Starter can give classic Harley Big Twins (with rigid or swingarm frames) the almost invisible option of starting by pushing a button. For reliable operation this system needs a powerful 12V Li-Ion battery, a solenoid, additional wiring and circuit breakers. To avoid an unsightly mess we developed this solution that incorporates everything inside a humble looking Harley HM5 battery case. From the outside it’s as stock looking as the 6V original, but the electrics inside are state of the art. In the two compartments there’s room for a 12 cell Antigravity Li-Ion battery and all necessary electrical components. A stock like lid looks as innocent as the vintage acid lead battery it replaces.

Modern gel or Li-Ion batteries offer a significant advantage - they are leak-proof. Those who ever experienced spilled acid in their horseshoe oil tanks will highly appreciate this fact. On the other hand, owners of classic bikes do like the looks of their original energy store and the corresponding cover and mounts. With a Bates BattBoy Battery Box you can have the best of both worlds, because what looks like a period type HM5 6V accumulator on the outside can house a safe, modern battery within. Just hook it with two eyelet wires to the terminals on the bottom of the lid and you are all set. Perfect for 6 to 12 volts electrical system conversions, too. When using suitable Antigravity versions you even have some storage room left for a few small spare parts, safety vest, Cuban cigars, etc. Ain't this one heck of a cool solution for an old problem?

Modern gel or Li-Ion batteries offer a significant advantage - they are leak-proof. Those who ever experienced spilled acid in the battery tray, on the frame, on the swingarm, etc. will highly appreciate this fact. On the other hand, owners of classic bikes do like the looks of their original energy store and the corresponding cover and mounts. With a Bates BattBoy Battery Box you can have the best of both worlds, because what looks like a period 32 amp 12V accumulator on the outside can house a safe, modern battery within. Just hook it with two eyelet wires to the terminals on the bottom of the lid and you are all set. When using suitable Antigravity versions you even have storage room left for a few small spare parts, safety vest, emergency beer, etc. Ain't this one heck of a cool solution for an old problem?

Terminal and thumb screw assembly which can be mounted on any suitable place on the motorcycle. It connects the battery’s ground (negative) terminal and cable with the frame.
After installation you have two options:
use your Kill Bill Switch like an ignition switch. Half a turn out and the current is interrupted., use your Kill Bill Switch as protection from manipulation and theft. When you leave your bike remove the thumb screw and thus disconnect the battery from the electrical system.,

Born as a spotlight but used on Choppers as Custom headlight since the 1960’s, sometimes even two of them. The timeless rectangular design makes it look right at home with all kinds of forks and handlebar shapes.

Actually a Grimes Model B left wing light of classic aircraft, but size and shape make it perfect for motorcycle taillight use - a very exclusive taillight, that is. The red bowl glass lens is made for rough conditions and is kept in place by a stainless steel bail.

A true Scrambler bike is not complete without one of these stone guards but it looks great on other scooters, too, which go for a "Six Days" outfit. Mounts in a minute with the bezel of Bates or similar headlamps.

Be it for a Six Days or for a round-the-world tour, your bike is not complete without one of these stone guards. Pinches under the bezel of Bates or similar head or spot lights and mounts in a minute.

Pre-TwinCam engines have a spring loaded ball check valve to prevent the engine oil from seeping down to the crankcase. These check valves don’t last forever. If you try to start your engine after a lengthy period of inactivity (e.g. winter), the oil in the crank case gets forcefully ejected via the breather. Creating an ungodly mess on your garage floor.
Installing a manually operated valve in the oil feed line from tank to oil pump can prevent this, but carries the risk of forgetting to open it. Resulting in major engine trouble. And we mean major.
This here nifty PanAm shut off valve is also installed in the feed line. With a little difference: once closed, the ignition is cut out too. No inadvertently starting the engine with this baby.
The tough polyamide housing has several mounting holes which offer all sorts of possibilities to secure it to the frame or other convenient hard points.

The classic look of the 32E generator and the more dependable technology of the later two brush generator - you can have the best of both worlds with these The Cyclery 32TC powerplants. On the outside they sport the typical 32E features like rounded brush covers with slotted hardware, riveted-on terminal plate and a bicolor, cast iron/aluminum housing. The inside, however, hides all the bullet-proof tech features of the later 58/65A generators, manufactured for us by Cycle Electric, USA.

Accurate reproduction of the original headlamp as used on 1920-1928 models.

Accurate reproduction of the original dual headlamps as used on all models 1929 and 1930.

Back in the Golden Twenties of the past century damaged lights caused by stones or spills were common. Lighting and charging systems were far from being dependable as we are used to it today. Getting spares for a Harley-Davidson in Germany was complicated and lengthy which brought many owners to switch to local products, which were available at any motorcycle dealer around the corner. Some guys even ordered their new machines without lighting and charging system and had them equipped with teutonic alternatives right from the start.
This is a faithful reproduction of the conical pre-war Bosch headlight which was used on various brands in the 1920’s. Comes complete with mounting rods and switch key.

Being in business since decades the Bates headlamp became a classic itself. Chopper and Bobber history is unthinkable without it, neither the future. With blue high beam indicator.

You like the Scrambler style? Here's your headlight. Not only has it the look but also the sturdy construction for offroad adventures. Complete with lamp insert, stoneguard and mounting block.

Completely show-chromed shell with high beam indicator lamp.

Installing Custom handlebars on classic Harleys often means omitting the manual advance control cable. Turning the timer assembly by hand is no problem, but it is crucial to keep it safely in its fully advanced position, once the bike is started. Instead of using the usual hardware store spring or rubberband we recommend a professional solution. The Timer Lock assembly features a spring supported hook, which securely holds the control cable stud. For starting you quickly hook off the lever, turn the timer to its fully retarded position, and when the engine fires, turn it back to fully advanced and secure again. Dead easy and safe.