Clutch Parts for Sportster 1971-early 1984

Clutch parts for Sportster 1971 - Spring 1984

There are plenty of reasons to replace a dry clutch with one in an oil bath: if the primary chain runs in oil, additional effort is required to keep the oil away from clutch. A clutch in an oil bath, however, - many also say wet clutch - gets rid of excess heat better, it simply transfers it to the oil. A dry clutch can become hot and is then more difficult to control. So when technical development made oil-compatible clutch linings available, there was hardly any reason to stick with the dry clutch. In 1971, the factory completely changed the clutch on the Sportster: switching from dry to wet, the six springs of the previous clutch were replaced by two large central coil springs and the release mechanism changed to the left side. The spiral-toothed release lever was changed to

to a design with balls and inclined ramps, which simplified production and saved costs.

Is there anything to consider? Special features?

The same applies to the clutch itself as to many other wet clutches: regular oil changes are essential - on the Sportster 1971 to 1984 every 8,000 km. If the clutch slips when accelerating despite meticulous adjustment, it is time for new friction plates, preferably aramid or carbon plates from Barnett. Check after draining the primary oil and readjust if necessary every 3,000 km. Of course, you should also take this opportunity to check the steel disks and the condition of the clutch hub and basket. Otherwise, replace parts as required (really rarely). The primary cover can be easily removed without changing the setting of the release mechanism. This adjustment can be made simply by unscrewing the large screw in the primary cover.